From Rome’s Colosseum to the splendours of Renaissance Florence – taking in the glories of Pompeii and majestic Mount Etna along the way – there is good reason why Italy has the most UNESCO World Heritage sites in the world and why, in the 18th century, il bel paese became the must-visit country for young British noblemen taking their ‘Grand Tour’.
The beginnings of the Grand Tour go back to the start of the 17th century, where the travel journals of two English noblemen, Thomas Coryat and the Earl of Arundel, were to influence a generation of young men to follow in their footsteps across Europe.
For any self-respecting aristocratic family, it became de rigueur to send their son and heir to Europe (through France to Italy) to complete their formal education on a cultural voyage of discovery that could last up to a couple of years.
By 1670, this trend was popular enough for writer Richard Lassels to coin the term ‘Grand Tour’ in his guidebook The Voyage of Italy, Or a Compleat Journey Through Italy. The earliest ‘influencers’, 18th-century Grand Tourists, brought back art and artefacts from their travels, as well as architectural, musical and cultural ideas that seeped into the fabric of their native countries.
By the end of the 18th century, the tradition was so established as a rite of passage for young ‘milords’ that diarist Samuel Johnson (who never set foot in Italy) would lament that: ‘A man who has not been in Italy is always conscious of an inferiority, from his not having seen what it is expected a man should see.’
The country’s abundance of art, architecture and culture continues to seduce millions of visitors today. But it’s not just the famous hotspots that have the monopoly on heritage – there are hidden gems away from the well-trodden tourist trails (as well as some hiding in plain sight).
Join us to explore a few of them as we embark on our own Grand Tour, taking in the treasures of a few lesser-explored destinations…
Cannaregio
The lure of Venice is like no other, with big-hitters such as St Mark’s Square and its Basilica, the Rialto Bridge and Grand Canal to name just a few. But there’s so much more to explore around its ancient corners – there are six districts, or sestieri, here, after all.
If you head to the northern part of the city you’ll find Cannaregio, a residential neighbourhood of quiet canals overlooking waters of the Venetian Lagoon. The eminent Renaissance artist Jacopo Tintoretto lived here in Rio della Sensa, and you can see several of his masterpieces in Madonna dell’Orto, the local church where he is also buried.
Walk through the alleyways of the historic Jewish quarter (the first-ever ghetto), where creativity abounds: at Mario Berta Battiloro gold is turned into delicate gold leaf entirely by hand, while the weavers at Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua produce sumptuous fabrics on handlooms, including soprarizzo velvet fabric. berta-battiloro.com; luigi-bevilacqua.com
Hotel Heureka is a beautifully restored 16th-century palazzo with vivid contemporary interiors and its own secret garden. hotel-heureka.com
Cantina Aziende Agricole and Al Timon are both good examples of the cicchetti bars for which Venice is renowned, serving small plates and tasty morsels with wine by the glass. cantinaaziendeagricole.com; altimon.it
Fiesole
Small and perfectly formed, the historic centre of Florence was largely built by the Medici family, whose wealth and patronage fed the creativity of the Renaissance.
Just a short no.7 bus ride up into the hills is Fiesole, which not only offers panoramic views over Florence, but has plenty to visit in its own right, with a spectacular Roman amphitheatre used for concerts and festivals, and several museums.
Make time to visit Museo Bandini where you’ll find paintings dating from the 13th to the 15th centuries, a collection of Byzantine art, and terracotta sculptures from the Della Robbia workshop.
museidifiesole.it/musei/museo-bandini
Pensione Bencistà is a 14th-century, family-run villa, recommended if you want a room with a view. It makes an ideal base from which to explore both Fiesole and Florence. bencista.com
Villa San Michele – this sumptuous hillside hotel is also open to the public for food. belmond.com
Bergamo
Sitting north-east of Milan is the city of Bergamo. Well, two cities to be exact: the Upper City, with its medieval towers and views over the Po Valley, and the Lower City, with grand, tree-lined avenues and bustling streets.
It was Italy’s City of Culture for 2023 (along with Brescia) and you’ll find plenty to do. For starters, it’s the birthplace of composer Gaetano Donizetti and the theatre and museum in his name offer a lively programme of events and concerts.
Head to the Accademia Carrara gallery for a prestigious array of works by masters such as Canaletto, Raphael and Botticelli, as well as Bergamo artists Lorenzo Lotto and Giovanni Battista Moroni. The city’s museum of contemporary art, GAMeC, can be found just across the piazza. donizetti.org; lacarrara.it; gamec.it
Four-star Relais San Vigilio is a historic retreat in the hills, with panoramic vistas. relaissanvigilio.it
Baretto di San Vigilio has an outside terrace and serves up classic Italian fare. barettosanvigilio.it
Nemi
Within easy reach of Rome and its treasures are the Castelli Romani, a scattering of small towns and volcanic lakes nestling in the Alban Hills, south of the Eternal City.
Head here as the ancient Romans did to escape the searing city heat, and discover Frascati and its crisp white wine, historic Castel Gandolfo, where the Pope’s summer residence and gardens are open to the public, and Genzano with its annual Infiorata (flower festival).
Overlooking Lake Nemi is the tiny pastel-coloured village of the same name, where you’ll capture the best views across the lake from the Terrazza degli Innamorati (Terrace of Lovers) and admire the ancient Romans’ nautical prowess at the local ship museum. visitcastelliromani.it
Eat and stay at Lo Specchio di Diana, an albergo diffuso (rustic guest apartments scattered around the village). Enjoy views over the lake and plenty of rural charm. specchiodidiana.it
Caserta
The 18th-century Grand Tourists would complete their journey in Naples, and we end our travels just north of Naples at Caserta, chosen for its Royal Palace, which surpasses even Versailles, such is its scale and grandeur.
Built for Charles of Bourbon in the 18th century, this magnificent palazzo sits in 11 landscaped acres and is an extravagant expression of Italian Baroque architecture, with 1,200 rooms around four interior courtyards, a chapel, a hunting lodge, a silk factory and a theatre!
Nearby is the dramatic 38km-long Vanvitelli Aqueduct built in the 18th century to serve the vast palace, gardens and its many fountains.
Grand Hotel Vanvitelli is just a few minutes’ drive from the Royal Palace of Caserta. grandhotelvanvitelli.it
Antica Hostaria Massa is one of the city’s longest-standing and most popular eateries. ristorantemassa.it
Getting there
The main airlines all run regular flights from the UK to most major Italian destinations.
Once in Italy, travelling from city to city by train is an excellent option if you don’t want to drive. The Frecciarossa intercity rail network connects all the main destinations in our feature (and many more), reaching speeds of 300km per hour!
The Trenitalia Pass is available for all ages, with adult prices starting from €129. trenitalia.com