Utrecht: the compact city that packs a punch when it comes to sustainable living. Once the most prominent city in the Netherlands (until it was surpassed by Amsterdam in the 17th century), famous for its Dom Tower, and as the birthplace of Miffy the rabbit, Utrecht has much to offer for a weekend jaunt. Hire a bike and cycle through the city, meander around the shopping streets, or take a nature-filled walk along the canal and discover a waterside park, created when the city decided that motorways were passé and took the refreshing decision to dig one of them up.
What to see
The Dom Tower
The tallest church spire in the whole of the Netherlands, Utrecht’s iconic Dom Tower stands at 112 metres high, giving amazing panoramic views across the city and beyond. Nearing the end of its current restoration process (something that happens every 50 years), over 600 sq m of stone has been removed and replaced on the building. Most interestingly, the waste that has been removed has been given over to stonemasons and creatives, who are repurposing each piece into beautiful objects that are for sale, such as jewellery, bee hotels, and even paintings from the dust. Visit the catacombs under the Gothic tower to learn more about the history of the city and see interesting artefacts from the location, including a Roman roof tile complete with cat-paw imprints. domtoren.nl
The Catharijnesingel
Head down to the award-winning Singelpark, a lush green kilometre-long waterside city park that, just a few years ago, was a 12-lane motorway. Utrecht gained city rights in 1122 and set about building a six-kilometre-long city wall with a moat around it, for protection. Over 840 years later, in the 1970s town planners covered it in tarmac. In 2020 the reversal was complete – aided by landscape architects and nature’s desire to reclaim space. This slice of tranquillity is just moments away from the city.
Neude Library
Now a city library with a great cafe, take time to appreciate the incredible scale of this building and its Art Deco-influenced interior. Originally a post office and telephone exchange, built on the site of the former Dutch Mint, the present building dates from 1924 and is an architectural ambassador for its era. Around the main hall, under the vast arch of the incredible glass roof, hundreds of tiles shaped as alighting carrier pigeons line the walls, and large carved bluestone statues represent the continents in fascinating details. bibliotheekutrecht.nl
Hof van Cartesius
Hop on a train (or bike) to Utrecht Zuilen and visit this hotspot for creative and sustainable entrepreneurs. The buildings have been created using a wide range of reclaimed materials, from railway platforms to skateboard decks. The on-site restaurant, Warmoes, serves breakfast through to dinner. Explore the climate-adaptive inner garden and pick up some great ideas and inspiration for upcycled garden buildings, too. hofvancartesius.nl
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banks of Utrecht’s beautiful canals. - Karen Harvey -
Where to shop
You’ll find brocantes and vintage shops filled with preloved treasures on pretty much every street in Utrecht. For unusual antiques and interior design pieces, such as brass palm tree lamps, carved stone sculptures and oil painted portraits, check out Lisman Antiques (Vismarkt 10).
If vintage attire is your thing, Utrecht is your city. Visit Vintage Island for a plethora of colourful patterns, denim, and cowboy boots. vintageisland.nl; head to Secondsas for designer gear from different eras in a historic canalside cellar with a vaulted ceiling. secondsas.nl; and don’t miss Kilo Kilo to shop vintage clothes by weight. kilokilovintage.nl
Kringloop De ARM is Utrecht’s biggest thrift shop. Find it in its city boutiques or the warehouse ‘recycled department store’ for secondhand goods including vintage books, vinyl, ceramics, furniture and more. @kringloopdearm_utrecht
For everything in one place, head to E&co (Lange Viestraat), the largest sustainable department store in the Netherlands. Here you’ll find a curated collection of clothes, stationery, homewares and other eco-friendly items, alongside a trendy cafe. And don’t miss the fabulous Art Nouveau shopfront and tiled entrance of Beadies, the most stylish of bead shops. beadies.com
Where to eat
Cafe Olivier
Enjoy a traditional lunch and a wide choice of beers from the extensive menu in this Belgian beer cafe, located in a former church. Enter via the inconspicuous doorway and find yourself in the vast space of the old ‘Maria Minor’ Catholic church – still very much intact with altar, organ pipes and vaults. cafe-olivier.be
Winkel van Sinkel
In the 1830s, Anton Sinkel opened his drapery shop on the old canal in Utrecht, the entrance adorned by four enormous cast- iron caryatid columns depicting Baroque-style women; it was to become the first department store in the Netherlands. In the early 1900s, the shop closed and was turned into a bank; then in the 1990s, after some years of neglect, the building was restored to its former glory. Now, you can visit the magnificent building for its grand cafe-restaurant, cultural offerings and fabulous interiors. dewinkelvansinkel.nl
Vegan Food Tour
Utrecht is home to some excellent vegan restaurants, but rather than having to choose just one place for dinner, why not take a tour and sample six? Walk through the inner city with the local guides, who will answer questions about the food scene as well as local history and hotspots. Along the stops, try exceptional pasteis de nata at Life’s a Peach, and vegan bitterballen (Dutch meatballs) at Last Vegas, before ending the tour at the relaxed boho hangout, restaurant BROEI. veganfoodtourutrecht.nl
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Where to stay
Grand Hotel Karel V
Perfectly positioned in the city, beside the Catharijnesingel canal, Karel V was once a 14th-century monastery, serving as accommodation for knights, priests and emperors. For over 100 years, until 1990, the site then served as a military hospital. Now, after a huge and sympathetic restoration, this national monument has been reimagined as a five-star hotel. There’s history everywhere at Karel V, and reminders of the past are displayed in mini exhibitions around the buildings, including the finds from a Roman burial ground discovered on-site. Spend your time here peacefully nestled amongst large trees, within quiet courtyards and gardens, then walk out of the gates to be immediately met by city life. karelv.nl
Muze
If smaller B&Bs are more your style, you’ll be hard-pushed to find a friendlier one than family-run Muze. Located a 20-minute walk away from the city centre, the B&B offers eight bedrooms, all decorated in a different style. The family has taken its cues from the city’s many museums, so there’s one that references the observatory – with a telescope – and one the railway museum. Our favourite? Clock, inspired by Utrecht’s Museum Speelklok, which is dedicated to self-playing instruments such as musical clocks. The room features a freestanding bath overlooking the garden, an upholstered bed, soothing paint shades and beautiful antiques. muzehotelutrecht.com
