Dogged by a dismissive characterisation as the domain of ‘newlyweds and nearly deads’, Madeira is, these days, rightly shaking off its staid reputation. This sub-tropical Portuguese island has all the exotic flora, epic scenery and historic places that have long attracted visitors, but its lively gastronomic scene, burgeoning culture of arts and impressive line in active pursuits are gaining renown, and today the island offers a much livelier getaway than one might imagine.
Its capital, Funchal, is leading the charge in changing the island’s standing. This refined, welcoming place is, in many ways, a tick-all-boxes holiday destination, balancing all the culture and excitement of a city break with seafront tranquility, green spaces and endless views – not to mention an alluring climate, particularly its mild winter temperatures.
Funchal’s geographic position – gently spread down the mountainside and across a natural ‘amphitheatre’ – is part of its charm, giving the place an open feel as it gazes out towards the Atlantic. Cable cars roll languidly up from the seafront to the district of Monte, while Funchal’s streets are packed with bars and restaurants, and its sophisticated centre boasts shops, galleries and museums that could keep any visitor occupied for days.
See
Museums
Whether your tastes run to the traditional or contemporary, there are museums here to feed your cultural appetite. Start with the Madeira Story Centre, which explores the history and culture of Madeira – a good introduction to the island (madeirastorycentre.com). Casa da Calçada houses the extensive collection of composer Frederico de Freitas, encompassing sculpture, painting, engravings, furniture, ceramics and more, all within a grand and historic dwelling. The ‘House of Tiles’ is a highlight (cultura.madeira.gov.pt/en). And, for a bit of light relief and some unique photo opportunities, head to the 3D Fun Art museum – an interactive museum of optical illusion (3dfunartfunchal.com).
Rua de Santa Maria
One of the city’s oldest streets, Rua de Santa Maria is home to bustling restaurants, a smattering of galleries and art shops, and has also become a great draw for tourists since the ‘Art of Open Doors’ project launched in 2010.This ancient pedestrianised street now represents something of a public art space, since local artists were invited to paint more than 200 of the street’s old doors. As a result, a walk down here today is a joyful experience, filled with colourful doorways sporting all kinds of designs and artistic styles (arteportasabertas.com).
Monte village
Peaceful Monte village sits above Funchal, with views across the city below and out towards the sea beyond – it’s also host to some lovely green spaces like the Monte Palace Tropical Garden and Emperor’s Gardens. Getting up here couldn’t be easier, and is an experience in itself with the Teleférico do Funchal cable car, which allows riders to enjoy sweeping views as they glide over the streets below. Getting down is potentially even more fun – the city’s ‘basket sledges’ allow visitors to career downhill in a wicker toboggan, propelled by a pair of speedy carreiros (sledge drivers). The tradition began in the 19th century as a means of getting from Monte to Funchal at speed, and remains a firm favourite on Madeira’s tourist itinerary (madeiracablecar.com/en; carreirosdomonte.com).
Mercado dos Lavradores
Funchal’s gastronomic scene has been shaped both by its location – seafood is at the heart of its output – and the host of local produce that grows so readily on the island, including bananas, passion fruit and tamarillo (English tomato). Funchal’s renowned farmers’ market is the perfect place to get a feel for the local produce and a wider sense of Madeira’s vibrant character. Rua Brigadeiro Oudinot
Shop
Bordal
Madeira is synonymous with embroidery and the tradition dates back to the 15th century. This intricate craft can be seen across the city and wider island, and at Bordal on Rua Dr Fernão Ornelas, not only can you buy authentic embroidered pieces but you can also find out more about the craft, tour the factory, or even take part in an embroidery workshop. bordal.pt
Lillie Ceramics
For colourful, tactile Portuguese ceramics and to see craftspeople in action, head to Rua Latino Coelho, where sisters Jenny and Lonny use the island as inspiration for their vibrant and beautiful pieces. lillieceramics.com
ARTTIA
Here on Rua de Santa Maria, visitors can peruse a range of handcrafted ceramics, art and jewellery, as well as checking out the open studio. If you’re feeling creative, book into one of the ceramics experiences or workshops so you can take home something special you’ve made yourself. arttiamadeira.com
Eat
ComTradições
With a wonderfully central location and a menu of traditional Portuguese dishes, this place is
a firm favourite with visitors to Funchal, for good reason. The food is delicious and offers an authentic taste of the island. Rua de Santa Maria 51
Restaurante Cidade Velha
As you might expect from an island destination, there is a lot of seafood in Madeira’s gastronomic offering. This restaurant in the Old Town is a great place to experience local fish dishes, such as cod with a cornbread crust. Rua Portão de São Tiago 21. restaurantecidadevelha.com
Stay
Reid’s Palace
With some of the best views in Madeira, this hotel offers a truly memorable stay. Guests were first welcomed here in 1891, and since then it has seen the likes of George Bernard Shaw and Winston Churchill pass through its doors. Today, contemporary comfort rubs shoulders with antique-style flourishes. belmond.com
Enotel Sunset Bay
Just a few miles west of Funchal you’ll find the town of Ponta do Sol, the island’s sunniest spot and the best for watching the sunsets. It’s within easy reach of some lovely hikes and has a pretty old town. Sunset Bay is perfectly placed for enjoying both sea and sunset views. enotel.com
