A mere hour’s drive north from the bustle of Venice, the tiny town of Asolo sits high in the rolling hills. Dotted with vineyards, which stretch to the Dolomites foothills, everywhere you turn offers yet another glorious vista, which is why the lyrical description as the ‘city of 100 horizons’ by 19th-century Italian poet Giosuè Carducci is so well deserved.
Steeped in history, notable residents such as Robert Browning, Freya Stark and Eleonora Duse have fallen under the town’s spell in centuries past. Today, its medieval cobbled streets, not one but two castles (Cornaro and Rocca di Asolo), Venetian architecture, elegant piazzas and friendly bars continue to weave their magic.
A weekend’s stay will give you enough time to soak up the local Asolani atmosphere, find out more about the town’s noble past and Venetian connections, browse its independent shops and tap into a slower pace of life, ideally with a glass of Asolo Prosecco in hand.
Visit
Villa Freya
This magnificent residence in the centre of Asolo was the home of Freya Stark (1893-1993), the intrepid 20th-century British explorer and travel writer. The extensive gardens include a beautiful rose garden bursting with English varieties, as well as sweeping lawns and the remains of a Roman amphitheatre, a noble vestige of Asolo’s Roman heritage. Contact the office to book a visit with your very own guide to show you around this fascinating place. villafreya.it
Museo Civico
You’ll find this small but perfectly formed museum in the centre of town and, within its historic walls (it used to be the Town Hall), there is everything you need to know about Asolo, from prehistoric to modern times, displayed through found objects, artworks and religious relics. The three most notable female residents – Caterina Cornaro, Eleonora Duse and Freya Stark – have their own dedicated exhibition areas, as well as a small section for Robert Browning. museoasolo.it
Shop
Soligo Fine Art
Ivo Soligo sources antique paintings from lesser-known artists across Europe and, if required, brings them back to life using original techniques and natural materials. Having spent 15 years as a collector and researcher of 16th- and 17th-century paintings, he’s extremely knowledgeable and passionate – especially on the subject of the Old Masters. Open by appointment only. soligofineart.com
Prior Fine Art Gallery
This small gallery is tucked away in the historic centre of Asolo: its narrow interior with whitewashed walls stretches a long way back, and is packed with antique treasures and art. Owner Cristina Prior, who also has a larger gallery in nearby Castelfranco Veneto (open by appointment only), specialises in Old Master artworks, with a focus on Italian and, in particular, Venetian painters. If you have a penchant for Italian Old Masters, such as Pompeo Batoni, Gianantonio Pellegrini and others, this place is well worth a visit. You’ll also find marble and wooden sculptures, decorative antiques, furniture and accessories from the 17th and 18th centuries. priorfineartgallery.it
Bernardi Asolo
Furniture restorer Bernardi Asolo goes back three generations and the current business, run by Jason Bernardi, combines the best of the old with the new. The showroom in Via Montello showcases fine antiques alongside furniture and home decor with a more contemporary aesthetic. If antiques are your passion, you’ll find an array of beautifully presented pieces from the 1600s to the 1900s. All are restored using historically accurate techniques and materials, and finished with authentic French polishing methods using straw oil and pumice stone, to ensure long-lasting results. bernardiasolo.it
Mercatino dell’Antiquariato di Asolo
On the second Sunday of each month, this antiques and collectables market takes place in and around Piazza Brugnoli, Asolo’s central square, from 8am to sunset (in July and August, it is moved to the cooler late afternoon to late evening). Browse the stalls to find everything from paintings, books and antique prints to jewellery and ceramics. Please note that vehicles are prohibited from the centre for the duration of the market, but you can park further down the hill at Parcheggio Forestuzzo and Parcheggio Cipressina, the town car parks on Via Forestuzzo. asolo.it/eventi/#/eventi
Trame Asolo
Asolo has a long and proud connection to the textile tradition and, opposite the home of Eleonora Duse, you’ll find the textile workshop of Trame Asolo, run by Monica and Benedetta. Two talented weavers, they are passionate about slow, handmade quality. All their stunning fabrics are handcrafted on original 19th-century looms, the weavers using luxury threads such as silk, linen and mohair. Visit for bespoke creations, from wraps and handkerchiefs to tailor-made suits. trameasolo.com
Le Damini Boutique
Prepare to be dazzled at Le Damini Boutique where twins, Elisabetta and Ilaria Damini, have curated their elegant collections of womenswear in a rainbow riot of colour. Here you’ll find sophisticated tailoring alongside chic leather trousers, silk evening dresses and cashmere knits. If you love bright colours and sharp tailoring, you’ll feel instantly at home here. ledaminiboutique.com
Asolo Wine Shop
The wine-producing tradition of the Asolo region is a proud one, and this wine shop’s Asolo Prosecco has been awarded its very own DOCG – the international gold standard of the highest-quality wine. asolowineshop.com
Eat
Trattoria Moderna Due Mori
Right in the heart of old Asolo town, this restaurant is something of an institution. Enjoy food with a view at a table on the expansive terrace, with its stunning vistas over the valley, or, in chillier months, through the panoramic windows of the cosy restaurant interior. Chef Stefano De Lorenzi cooks regional dishes in his wood-fired kitchen, and the wine list celebrates the locally produced and excellent Prosecco d’Asolo. 2mori.it
La Tavernetta
A convenient minute or two’s walk from Hotel Asolo, Tavernetta Ristorante is open every day except Thursday. This authentic trattoria (think terracotta-tiled flooring, exposed brick walls and a beamed ceiling) is a favourite of locals and visitors alike, with a friendly, welcoming atmosphere. The restaurant prides itself on its locally sourced and seasonal menu, which celebrates produce from this productive region, such as asparagus, artichokes, radicchio and an array of delicious cheeses. tavernetta-asolo.it
Stay
Hotel Villa Cipriani
This magnificent Palladian villa was once owned by Robert Browning and is in a tranquil setting, surrounded by its beautiful, award-winning gardens and breathtaking views over the Asolo valley and Monte Grappa beyond. This 5-star hotel is perhaps as romantic as it gets – with a restaurant ideally placed for viewing the sunset, and 28 stylish rooms and suites furnished with handsome antiques and delicate floral textiles. There’s also an infinity pool, with loungers that face out towards the valley. villacipriani.it
Hotel Asolo
Originally an 18th-century farmstead, this welcoming hotel – just a three-minute drive from Asolo’s historic town centre – is the perfect base for a longer stay. The 32 en-suite rooms feature characterful exposed brickwork, wooden beams and antique furniture. hotel-asolo.com
Don’t miss
Museum Gypsotheca Antonio Canova
The birthplace of Antonio Canova (1757-1822) in nearby Possagno houses a museum telling the story of this most acclaimed sculptor and artist of the neoclassical period. Marvel at his creative process and admire a breathtaking display of his marble masterpieces. museocanova.it